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Data Posted December 17, 1999 3:45 PM EST

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An Initiative Aimed at Improving
Apparel Industry Working Conditions Worldwide


In light of the ongoing need to eliminate sweatshops both here and abroad, the board of directors of the American Apparel Manufacturers Association (AAMA) asked the association in September 1997 to launch an effort to create a meaningful and comprehensive program to address global apparel industry workplace conditions.

AAMA member companies were dissatisfied with the pace of existing initiatives, and they felt the time had come for U.S. apparel manufacturers to play a leadership role. A task group of members, association staff and consultants was formed to mobilize an initiative that came to be known as the Worldwide Responsible Apparel Production (WRAP) Program. As an early step in this process, the task group established 12 principles (see below) ranging from a ban on forced labor to helping law enforcement agencies pursue customs compliance and narcotics interdiction.

The WRAP initiative is a factory-based inspection program that will be overseen by an independent Certification Agency. The nine-member WRAP Certification Agency will include experts with relevant experience in the apparel industry, academia, non-governmental organizations and other fields. Factory managers who would like to have their facilities certified for compliance with the WRAP Principles must complete a three-step process: 1) they must conduct a pre-certification review to determine what improvements, if any, are necessary to bring the factory into compliance with the WRAP Principles. 2) An outside monitor approved by the WRAP Certification Agency will inspect the plant based on detailed criteria that will verify that the factory is not only in compliance with the WRAP Principles, but that

systems are in place to address any compliance-related problems that may arise. 3) The WRAP Certification Agency will review the factory's application materials, including the independent monitor's report, and will then certify the factory if it meets the WRAP Program requirements. The WRAP Certification Agency also will determine how often the factory must renew its certification status. This will vary depending on a range of factors including the plant's performance during the inspection process and the risk of labor abuses occurring in a particular country or region.

Following a formal unveiling of the WRAP initiative in September 1998, the task group has moved forward with a pilot inspection program involving 30 factories located in the United States, Latin America and Asia. The pilot inspections are expected to run through mid-1999. Meanwhile, candidates for membership in the WRAP Certification Agency are being considered. The WRAP initiative is expected to become fully operational sometime in 1999. Because the program is designed to improve working conditions for apparel workers worldwide, any garment factory - not just those owned or operated by AAMA member companies - may participate in the WRAP Program. For more information please call Mary Howell at 800/520-2262, or e-mail her at mrhowell@americanapparel.org.

These Worldwide Responsible Apparel Production Principles are minimum standards for production facilities participating in the Responsible Apparel Production Program. The Program's objective is to demonstrate the apparel industry's commitment to socially responsible business practices and to assure that apparel is produced under lawful, humane and ethical conditions. Participating companies voluntarily agree that their production and that of their contractors will be certified by an independent monitor as complying with these standards.

Laws and Workplace Regulations Apparel manufacturers will comply with laws and regulations in all locations where they conduct business.
Forced Labor Apparel manufacturers will not use involuntary or forced labor -- indentured, bonded or otherwise.

Child Labor Apparel manufacturers will not hire any employee under the age of 14, or under the age interfering with compulsory schooling, or under the minimum age established by law, whichever is greater.

Harassment or Abuse Apparel manufacturers will provide a work environment free of harassment, abuse or corporal punishment in any form.

Compensation and Benefits Apparel manufacturers will pay at least the minimum total compensation required by local law, including all mandated wages, allowances and benefits.

Hours of Work Hours worked each day, and days worked each week, shall not exceed the legal limitations of the countries in which apparel is produced. Apparel manufacturers will provide at least one day off in every seven day period, except as required to meet urgent business needs.

Discrimination Apparel manufacturers will employ, pay, promote, and terminate workers on the basis of their ability to do the job, rather than on the basis of personal characteristics or beliefs.

Health and Safety Apparel manufacturers will provide a safe and healthy work environment. Where residential housing is provided for workers, apparel manufacturers will provide safe and healthy housing.
Freedom of Association Apparel manufacturers will recognize and respect the right of employees to exercise their lawful rights of free association, including joining or not joining any association.

Environment Apparel manufacturers will comply with environmental rules, regulations and standards applicable to their operations, and will observe environmentally conscious practices in all locations where they operate.

Customs Compliance Apparel manufacturers will comply with applicable customs law and, in particular, will establish and maintain programs to comply with customs laws regarding illegal transshipment of apparel products.

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